North to Peck Spring, South to Peck Spring | Summer, Winter – 7/9/2018, 1/23/2019

SunZia News

The proximity of SunZia’s route to the San Manuel Ray Blair Airport triggered an FAA review of the project resulted in several notable changes – the proposed route of the line now runs closer to Oracle State Park, lines in the area will be required to have marker balls and 21 of the towers will have lights on top. A string of glowing lights in the San Pedro River Valley would be a disappointing addition – I am unsure about the impact to the views from Oracle State Park but this is a particularly unwelcome addition considering the International Dark Sky Park designation that Oracle State Park has achieved. This change has not yet been officially approved so there is some hope that a better solution might be found. The Arizona Corporation Commission eDocket for SunZia has documents related to this proposed change including comments from the Friends of Oracle State Park and Cascabel Working Group.

SunZia - FCC Route change bringing the line closer to Oracle State Park - not indicated on this map are the locations of the 21 towers that will require lights... February 2019.
SunZia – FCC Route change bringing the line closer to Oracle State Park – not indicated on this map are the locations of the 21 towers that will require lights… February 2019.

In July of 2018 the New Mexico Public Regulation Commission issued a Recommended Decision that denied SunZia’s request for location approval. After several months of additional filings, motions and responses that decision was upheld in a Final Order issued in September 2018. The request was denied ‘without prejudice’ so it is just a matter of time before SunZia submits this request again.

In October of 2018 the New Mexico Public Regulation Commission approved the location of Pattern Development’s Corona Wind Projects which allows construction to begin on an estimated 950 wind turbines. The projects – Duran Mesa, Cowboy Mesa, Red Cloud, Tecolote, Ancho and Viento Loco – are located in Lincoln, Torrance and Guadalupe counties in east-central NM. The project includes a 140 mile transmission line project that will connect this project with SunZia so that the generated energy can be sold to western states. Pattern Energy announced that purchase agreements have been made with Silicon Valley Clean Energy and Monterey Bay Community Power in California. A Utility Dive article indicates that Pattern Energy will be working with SunZia on the resubmittal of their application to the New Mexico Public Regulation Commission.

 


North – Davis Mesa Road to Peck Spring – Summer

Saguaro ribs along the SunZia route north or Davis Mesa Road. July 2018.
Saguaro ribs along the SunZia route north or Davis Mesa Road. July 2018.

Wandering cross-country thru the saguaros has a rhythm, a shape – step forward step forward; — pause — look; step to the side, squeeze thru, step forward step forward… Sometimes your path doubles back on itself and starts again – sometimes it curves with the landscape – never steady, never straight, infinite variations on a theme.

North of Edgar Canyon and the Davis Mesa road the SunZia Transmission heads north – white hills, red hills and down into flatter terrain before turning to the northwest to parallel the existing gas line. Previous section that I hiked had deep canyons – substantial vertical gains and losses – SunZia’s route is obviously a straight line on the map, but the experience of trying to follow it across broken terrain really didn’t bring to mind straight lines and clean angles. Today is different – a straight line thru this gently rolling desert is alien, infuriating – SunZia’s mechanical progression out of place and lacking grace, even the old road towards Peck Spring curves and matches landscape…

In this short section there will be 7 towers, 2 tension pads and 5 new access roads – it is nice to turn away and make the short walk to the Peck Spring area.

SunZia Route - leaving the Davis Mesa. July 2018.
SunZia Route – leaving the Davis Mesa. July 2018.
Fallen Saguaro fruit along the Sunzia Route. July 2018.
Fallen Saguaro fruit along the Sunzia Route. July 2018.
Red rock along the SunZia route. July 2018.
Red rock along the SunZia route. July 2018.
East side of the Santa Catalina Mountains from the SunZia Route north of Davis Mesa Road. July 2018.
East side of the Santa Catalina Mountains from the SunZia Route north of Davis Mesa Road. July 2018.
SunZia Route Map - Davis Mesa Road to the road to Peck Spring. July 2018.
SunZia Route Map – Davis Mesa Road to the road to Peck Spring. July 2018.

 


Interlude – Peck Spring

Dry tank in the Peck Spring Area. July 2018.
Dry tank in the Peck Spring Area. July 2018.
A maze of chutes and fencing in the Peck Spring area. July 2018.
A maze of chutes and fencing in the Peck Spring area. July 2018.
Gila Monster above Peck Canyon. July 2018.
Gila Monster above Peck Canyon. July 2018.
Beautiful Tree shooting up from Peck Spring. July 2018.
Beautiful Tree shooting up from Peck Spring. July 2018.

The name ‘Peck’ predates Arizona’s statehood and surrounded by old fences and corrals I can’t help but think about the small bits of history I have learned over the past few years – from Bernard W. Muffley’s 1938 History of the Lower San Pedro Valley, pages 29-30:

In 1885 the Bayless and Berkalew Company purchased the homesteads of William and Edward Peck. Near by on a school section they founded a ranch later known as the Sacaton. From this humble beginning the company gradually increased its interests until at one time it comprised 9000 acres of patented land. Starting about the same time, Demitrus Markham built up a large ranch between Sacaton and Reddington. Later, however, this land was acquired by Bayless and Berkalew. The trade of this section of the San Pedro Valley became so important that in the summer of 1885 a road was constructed across Cabadillo Pass into the San Pedro Valley. On this same road Dr. C. H. Davis, brother of W. C. Davis of the San Pedro Valley, was ambushed and killed by the Indians early in June, 1886. Thus the fact is shown that bands of renegade Apaches were still at large.

The map below is drawn from the Bureau of Land Management’s General Land Office Records and shows land ownership along the San Pedro before 1900. Of course the San Pedro River Valley has been inhabited for thousands of years, in the big picture all the names here represent newcomers – but a number of these names make their way onto present day maps and histories. Whitlock Canyon, Peck Basin, Peck Canyon, Peck Spring, Stratton Canyon (and the very interesting Pioneering in Arizona, The Reminiscences of Emerson Oliver Stratton & Edith Stratton Kitt), Davis Mesa, Redfield Canyon, Bollen Wash, Markham Canyon… Land ownership was concentrated along the river – still somewhat true today – and the original 1880 survey for 10S18E leaves much of the land farther from the river basically blank with labels indicating ‘land rough’ and ‘land broken by canyons’.

General Land Office Land Ownership along the San Pedro before 1900. February 2019.
General Land Office Land Ownership along the San Pedro before 1900. February 2019.
Original Survey of Township 10S Range 18E - approved in 1880 with land ownership, including the Peck's land, overlaid and Alder Wash and Kielberg Canyon labeled. February 2019.
Original Survey of Township 10S Range 18E – approved in 1880 with land ownership, including the Peck’s land, overlaid and Alder Wash and Kielberg Canyon labeled. February 2019.

 


South – Black Hills Mine Road to Peck Canyon – Winter

Cracks and ripples in a fallen Prickly Pear. January 2019.
Cracks and ripples in a fallen Prickly Pear. January 2019.

It’s been some time since I followed the SunZia route – a break from the heat, a break from thinking about SunZia – but it isn’t time to stop and today I head south from Black Hills Mine Road. Rippling hills, alternating white and red soils, views across the valley to the Galiuros… But dominating the day are the cracks in the landscape – steep sided dirt and rock washes, awkward and loose, dry rocks and sand at the bottom – V shaped views down into the valley and across to the Galiuros. Cool winter weather and the occasional feeling of being nowhere – a beautiful day.

Wash and Saguaros along the SunZia Transmission Line route. January 2019.

Wash and Saguaros along the SunZia Transmission Line route. January 2019.
Red Sand, Prickly Pear and Brittle Bush. January 2019.
Red Sand, Prickly Pear and Brittle Bush. January 2019.
Panoramic view of the Galiuros across the San Pedro River, the SunZia Route will run south on the far right. January 2019.
Panoramic view of the Galiuros across the San Pedro River, the SunZia Route will run south on the far right. January 2019.
Alder Wash. January 2019.
Alder Wash. January 2019.
Sand and rocks in an unnamed wash. January 2019.
Sand and rocks in an unnamed wash. January 2019.
SunZia Route Map - Peck Canyon to Black Hills Mine Road. February 2019.
SunZia Route Map – Peck Canyon to Black Hills Mine Road. February 2019.

Desert Plants – Santa Catalina Mountains – 6/7/2018

Desert Plants - Annotated Flora of the Santa Catalina Mountains, Pima & Pinal Counties, Southeastern Arizona. June 2018.
Desert Plants – Annotated Flora of the Santa Catalina Mountains, Pima & Pinal Counties, Southeastern Arizona – James T. Verrier. June 2018.

It was an absolute thrill to find that the current issue (Volume 33, Number 2, January 2018) of Desert Plants is about the Santa Catalina Mountains! I love the Catalinas and would be excited regardless of what was inside this volume, but to find pictures of lesser traveled destinations like Buehman Canyon and Burro Creek, sections on the history of botanical collection, rare plants and invasive plants and a long annotated checklist of vascular plants followed by pictures?!?! Amazing!!

Given the remote locations and large amount of material in this volume I was not completely surprised to read James T. Verrier’s notes on the effort that went into this project:

A total of 380 days of field work were conducted between April 2007 and December 2017, including over 28,000 miles of driving. Although nearly all areas of the range were visited, lesser collected regions were emphasized. … Extensive botanical exploration was performed on the remote and rugged east side of the mountains. Field days sometimes included up to a 180-mi round trip to a single destination, traveling along rough Jeep trails and arriving in areas with no trails. These areas proved to be the most satisfying to explore and filled in large voids of the known flora. … All field work was conducted while working a full-time job, so only day trips were possible. Field days were typically long and tiring, beginning at 5am and sometimes returning home after 9pm.

Recent issues of Desert Plants can be found at the Kirk-Bear Canyon Library (with the periodicals) and older issues are available for in library use at the Joel Valdez Main Library. Desert Plants is sold by Desert SurvivorsPlants for the Southwest, and B & B Cactus – I suggest contacting them before visiting to ask if they have the issue you want in-stock. The Desert Plants Journal also sells issues and when I contacted them about a purchase were quite helpful!

Across Davis Mesa, Into Edgar Canyon – 11/26/2016

November 2016.
From a 1904 map of the Tucson area – the current Davis Spring Trailhead is near the center of the map above ‘Davis Spring’. Note the trail across Davis Mesa from Alder Canyon… November 2016.

The Davis Spring Trailhead is a gateway into an interesting part of the mountain – but, in addition to the mandatory hour+ drive, the primary access is a long, slow, high-clearance drive from Redington Road – far too few hikers see this area.

North of Edgar Canyon, across Davis Mesa, Black Hills Mine Road runs along the north ridge of Alder Canyon – notably easier to drive than the the Davis Spring Trailhead access road.

Encouraged by a trail shown on the 1904 USGS Tucson Quadrangle, I wondered if it might be faster to access the Davis Spring Trailhead by parking above Ventana Windmill off Black Hills mine road and hiking across Davis Mesa. I plotted a route across Davis Mesa that, in my living room, seemed like the route would be primarily fast-to-walk easy-to-find double track.

November 2016.
November 2016.

On the south side of Alder Canyon it was clear that the double track, so clear on the aerial views of the area, was not going to be quite as expected – we found hints of it but… I was glad to be hiking with Geoffrey from Trailvoyant – great company and an experienced set of eyes to look for the faint track!

Near the wash splitting Davis Mesa the double track became more distinct, but even then its rocky decent didn’t actually speed us up – on the other side an old road eventually appeared and curved towards the trailhead.

November 2016.
In April of this year this area was covered by a pool of water that was several feet. November 2016.

Clear water flowed from Davis Spring and water is still making its way down to the corral above Edgar Canyon. At the corral we drop into the bottom of the canyon – there is less water than there was in April, and very little flow – mostly just isolated pools.

November 2016.
Geoffrey from Trailvoyant enjoying the Fall colors in Edgar Canyon – the Davis Spring Trail bypasses this section of Edgar Canyon on the hillside above. November 2016.

The bottom of the canyon is filled with fall colors – we leave the trail behind as it climbs the canyon side and continue up canyon to the Davis Spring and Knagge Trail junction – our turn around point for the day –  on the way back we find, lose, and then find the Davis Spring Trail before crossing back over Davis Mesa and Alder Canyon as the light fades.

November 2016.
Davis Spring Trail and Knagge Trail Junction Sign. November 2016.

On the 1957 Bellota 15′ Map the trail across Davis Mesa is no longer present and our path across Davis Mesa doesn’t seem worth repeating or recommending – a fun adventure and a great day out, but not the alternate Davis Spring Trailhead access I had hoped for!

November 2016.
November 2016.

Lombar Hill – 10/31/2016

Lombar Hill from the Control Road. October 2016.
Lombar Hill from the Control Road. October 2016.

Below Marble Peak, at a sharp turn, the Control Road crosses a cattle guard and a fence runs up the ridge towards the top of Lombar Hill. A road on the north side of the fence seems like it might take you to the top, but instead it ends at a fire ring and a trail that quickly disappears into thick vegetation. On the south side of the fence a small, occasionally overgrown, path parallels the fence – it only takes a few minutes on this path to get to the top – a nice break from the long drive up the mountain!

Looking down the mountain into the San Pedro River Valley from Lombar Hill - Alder Canyon and the ridge between Alder and Edgar Canyons are on the right - if you zoom in you can see Black Hills Mine Road and the road to Ventana Windmill descending into Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Looking down the mountain into the San Pedro River Valley from Lombar Hill – Alder Canyon and the ridge between Alder and Edgar Canyons are on the right – if you zoom in you can see Black Hills Mine Road and the road to Ventana Windmill descending into Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Horned Lizard on Lombar Hill. October 2016.
Horned Lizard on Lombar Hill. October 2016.

I am not sure about the who/what/why of the name Lombar Hill (please contact me if you can fill me in on the history of this name!) – the name does not appear on the USGS 1904 Tucson Map, perhaps because it is a smaller feature, but does appear on a survey from the 1920s…

The 1904 Tucson Topo Map (available as a free download from the USGS) - Lombar Hill is in the center of the map but is not labeled. October 2016.
The 1904 Tucson Topo Map (available as a free download from the USGS) – Lombar Hill is near the center of the map but is not labeled. October 2016.
Lombar Hill shown on a Survey from the 1920s, unlike the 1904 Topo Lombar Hill is labeled. The survey document is available from the General Land Office Records (Township 11S Range 16E). October 2016.
Lombar Hill shown on a Survey from the 1920s, unlike the 1904 Topo Lombar Hill is labeled. The survey document is available from the General Land Office (Township 11S Range 16E). October 2016.

Alder Canyon from Ventana Windmill to Juan Spring – 10/20/2016

The 4th edition of the The Santa Catalina Mountains, A Guide to the Trails and Routes added a description of the Alder Canyon Trail (p. 93) with two starting points, Juan Spring and Big Alder Spring – but the lower sections of the canyon are not mentioned. The starting points may might put you in more remote sections of the canyon more quickly – but the section from the Ventana Windmill to Juan Spring is worth noting…

Dam in Alder Canyon above Ventana Windmill.  October 2016.
Dam in Alder Canyon above Ventana Windmill. October 2016.

We park off of Black Hills Mine Road, hike down to Ventana Windmill and start hiking up the canyon. In just a few minutes walls of conglomerate close in and an old dam appears – the smell from the pool of water under than dam encourages us to backtrack and walk the cliffs above the narrows.

Above the narrows the canyon is beautiful – sometimes more open, sometimes covered by trees – in a particularly lovely spot we find the remains of what might have been a hearth and a small structure. Farther up canyon surface water surprises us – and we are surprised again by clear pools of water. Near Juan Spring we exit the canyon, eventually finding and following the old trail up and loop back to the truck via the road.

An old fireplace and fence near Alder Canyon. October 2016.
An old fireplace and fence near Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Inside Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Inside Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Pool in Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Pool in Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Roots in Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Roots in Alder Canyon. October 2016.
Water trough in Alder Canyon near Juan Spring. October 2016.
Water trough in Alder Canyon near Juan Spring. October 2016.

A few notes:

  • On the map a trail is drawn along the canyon from Ventana Windmill to Juan Spring – we spent spent the majority of the hike in the bottom of the canyon, while we didn’t try hard to find the trail I suspect that it is best considered a ‘route’ at this point…
  • This area is probably used more frequently by hunters than by hikers (AZGF Hunting Seasons, Season Dates, Rules and Regulations – Unit 33) – especially without a commonly used trail in the area it is probably advisable to wear bright colors especially during deer season. (Note that the heaviest users of this area is certainly the cows…)
  • This hike is on Arizona State Trust Land – a permit is required.
Map - Alder Canyon - Ventana Windmill to Juan Spring. October 2016.
Map – Alder Canyon – Ventana Windmill to Juan Spring. October 2016.